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Old 04-01-2009, 20:12   #526
Blinky
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Hey guys, since G20 is no longer with us, I'm going to do step in and try to fill his shoes here. If you've posted a question and haven't received an answer I'll be coming in soon and giving you all the help I can.

Just some quick back ground on me, I've been volunteering at my local humane society for about 3 years now, working with the dogs there. I also have been doing in home consultations for clients for the past year or so. Most of my knowledge comes from my personal experiences dealing with dogs but I also have a vast library at home that contains books that deal with just about every training philosophy out there.

I generally go with a very natural approach to training. To me, that means using mother nature to your advantage and emphasizing the leader/follower relationship that must be clear in order to have a stable dog and a behaved pack.

That said, I do realize that each dog is different and each owner is different, and something that works for one dog may have to be modified slightly to work for you and your dog. So when asking a question giving me as much background as possible will go far in helping you to find a solution to your problems.

(Platz you have a PM)
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Old 04-23-2009, 06:24   #527
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Maybe you can give me some advice!

Adopted a male boxer about 1.5 yrs old. He showed up at a friends house. She took him to the vet and got him fixed and checked out. He was found to be stage 2 heartworm positive but more on that later.

We took him home. He seems a good dog and somebody has taught him some good stuff. During walks he pulls a lot but I make him walk beside me and give corrections. He gets very excited over other dogs or any animals really, even birds.

Now we have two cats and my reptiles. He must get along with the cats or he cannot stay. So far I have kept the cats in the back of hte house and only let them out when he is out of sight on a walk or outdoors on the tether.

The cats have came out and checked out his crate and smelled him. I have made sure he has smelled the cats too. The other day he got a glimpse of one of them when I opened the door. He rushed to the door and looked under and I couldn't get him away easily.

He went a couple days ago for his heartworm treatment and of course he is very tired now and lazy. I was thinking that maybe this will be a good time to introduce them with him on the leash. Last night I allowed him to see the cat from a distance. He made the leash tight and his ears were perked up. The cat just sat there about ten feet. She didn't run or anything. I think if they run he will want to chase. It seems he has a strong prey drive which means this may not work out.

Any tips for introducting them? I've read several articles online but most say something different. About the only consistant thing is when they are introduced to make sure to associate the cats with treats and not allow him off the leash but to slowly lower the distance to the cat as can be allowed. I can really only give him a month to see if he will work in our home. Thanks.
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Old 05-01-2009, 11:49   #528
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Originally Posted by Mrs.Cicero View Post
I have a Sheltie/Aussie cross that is an 8-mile-a-day dog. He isn't getting 8 miles of walking in this cold and snow. I'd like to teach him to walk on the treadmill, but have no idea how to do that. If it helps, he does sit, down, come, stay, plays frisbee and fetch, waits for food (i put it in the dish while he's sitting somewhere in the kitchen - he doesn't come to the food til he's told to do so, and he calls off his food (i trained him to do that 'cause the horses i work with are all trained to do it, and i wondered if a dog could learn it, too). I haven't managed to get him to balance a treat on his nose without eating it yet, but Mr.C is working on that with him. In the spring we'll do agility stuff, but right now he is bored and gnawing on the kids' toys. So, how do i teach him to walk on the treadmill for a little exercise? Currently, he'll sit on it on command, though he won't get up on it unless he's told to "up". Thanks and Merry Christmas!

Mrs.C
A treadmill is a GREAT tool btw. For most dogs, you need to ease them into it. I would first bring the dog around the treadmill and encourage him to sniff it etc.. Put the dog on it while it is not moving and give him a small treat or two. Also bring the dog in while you are using the treadmill to get it used to the sound of the treadmill running or just turn it on at low speed with him in the room. If the dog has made it this far without issue, then start feeding the dog on the treadmill. Basically you want the dog to associate the treadmill with all positive things.

Once you feel that the dog has no issues with being in the room with the treadmill on or him being physically on the treadmill, then it's time to actually get him on it. Take him for a short walk around the block and then into the room with the treadmill. While still holding the leash, put the treadmill on at it's lowest speed. If the dog reacts with panic, DO NOT panic with him. You need to be calm, cool and collected during the whole time. If it is extreme panic, then take him off and repeat the process. If he is startled, then use the leash to keep him on the treadmill. Only after the dog starts walking should you give encouragement. Most dogs will adapt very well to the treadmill.

I have three issues though, first, NEVER use the treadmill for a walk substitute, NEVER use the leash to tie the dog to it and for the first few days never let the dog out of your sight while he is on it.
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:07   #529
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Originally Posted by Zonny View Post
Not sure how to handle this so I thought I would pose the question here.

Two nights ago, I took my dog outside with me to walk a visiting friend to his vehicle. This is a frequent thing that my dog always thinks she needs to be a part of. Problem was, as soon as we made it out the front door, she spotted two cats in our yard (a rare thing) a took out after them. She ran ran across the street and was heading toward a busy street, I yelled, "NO!!!" and she stopped.

So here in lies the dilemma, how do I scold her when she did obey my command to stop?

Hopefully this won't happen again, I will be more cautious but she likes to come out front to collect the mail and so forth. I would like to think that she would not do this again but I'm not so sure.
Well, the "bad" news is that you can't scold her for anything. IF you try she'll assume that you're scolding her for obeying the "NO" command or have no idea why she is being scolded.

My advice at this point would be to keep the dog on leash and fasten the leash to yourself. That way you have access to some control. You can keep both hand free and basically ignore her until something like that happens again. She'll get the point eventually.
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:11   #530
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Originally Posted by Mrs.Cicero View Post

Mrs.C - still trying to train the dog to run on the treadmill - suggestions welcome - currently he will eat on it, or near it HURRIEDLY if i am standing on it or near it making noises with it (scraping my feet on the treads, tapping on the control panel - which tends to unnerve him. Anyone else in the family doing this and he just bolts for the door). I'd like to put his food int he room, shut the door and get on the treadmill and turn it on myself...

Mrs.C
OK, I didn't see this when I did my initial response. When he panics, how do you react? How do the other family members react? Do you try to do this with the dog "cold" or after a walk/exorcise session?
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:15   #531
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Originally Posted by Cope's Distributing View Post
I have a pair of Rotts. My male is turning 3 years old. and is a good dog he listens really well. my female is getting ready to turn 2 and is a total wreck. When I bought her at 11 months she had been kept in a kennel her whole life and was so hyper. I have worked with her alot and she got better, but not much better. I can leave them both in the house and she will chew up everything. They will both go to the bathroom in my kitchen. I will take them out and let them run in my yard for about a hour and they play with my two sons who are 3 and 2. As soon as I let them both in they will use the bathroom on my kitchen floor again an again.

If I have my male in the house he will not do anything but act like a lap dog and my kids will ride him around the house. She is the same she will lay on my bed and and be a really good dog when it is only me and her.

But the down side to my female is that she hates men. she will act like a crazed dog and try to attak any one that comes near me or my kids. She is fine when she is around women but can not stand men.

Please PM me and let me know what you think i should do.
Two questions:

How is she on a walk?

Also, was she aggressive to men when you first got her, or did that come out later?
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:26   #532
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No Soldans near me. They don't sell stuff online either.
Switch to a better food. You can pick up Blue Buffalo at petsmart.

Chances are that the dog isn't getting all the necessary nutrients out of the food and/or is not fully digesting it.

Just remember to switch food gradually, over the course of a week or so.
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:38   #533
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Originally Posted by Sapperstang View Post
Maybe you can give me some advice!

Adopted a male boxer about 1.5 yrs old. He showed up at a friends house. She took him to the vet and got him fixed and checked out. He was found to be stage 2 heartworm positive but more on that later.

We took him home. He seems a good dog and somebody has taught him some good stuff. During walks he pulls a lot but I make him walk beside me and give corrections. He gets very excited over other dogs or any animals really, even birds.

Now we have two cats and my reptiles. He must get along with the cats or he cannot stay. So far I have kept the cats in the back of hte house and only let them out when he is out of sight on a walk or outdoors on the tether.

The cats have came out and checked out his crate and smelled him. I have made sure he has smelled the cats too. The other day he got a glimpse of one of them when I opened the door. He rushed to the door and looked under and I couldn't get him away easily.

He went a couple days ago for his heartworm treatment and of course he is very tired now and lazy. I was thinking that maybe this will be a good time to introduce them with him on the leash. Last night I allowed him to see the cat from a distance. He made the leash tight and his ears were perked up. The cat just sat there about ten feet. She didn't run or anything. I think if they run he will want to chase. It seems he has a strong prey drive which means this may not work out.

Any tips for introducting them? I've read several articles online but most say something different. About the only consistant thing is when they are introduced to make sure to associate the cats with treats and not allow him off the leash but to slowly lower the distance to the cat as can be allowed. I can really only give him a month to see if he will work in our home. Thanks.
The main tip is to introduce them after a nice long walk get the dog nice and tired and used to being in the follower position. I'm not too keen on the idea of using treats as a part of this. Generally most owners and dogs associate treats with excitement, which is the exact opposite of what you are trying to accomplish.

I would put them all in the same room with you. Put the dog on leash and sit there ignoring the whole thing. If the dog starts to act up, let the dog tire himself out. Eventually he'll get the point and have no other choice but to relax. Stay there as long as it takes. You are mainly just there to hold the leash. When the dog relaxes, then you should go in with soft praise and gentle petting. You need to be relaxed during the whole time. The moment you get stressed, the dog will feed off of that.

If there is a HUGE reaction from the dog, you may want to consider a prong collar. It won't hurt the dog, but it will make it less comfortable for the dog to bolt at the cats.

Also, you need to find an outlet for the prey drive. See if you can talk to some Schutzhund clubs in your area. This will require a huge commitment from you though. But, with right dog and owner, it can be a very rewarding experience.
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Last edited by Blinky; 05-01-2009 at 12:45..
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Old 05-02-2009, 09:31   #534
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Switch to a better food. You can pick up Blue Buffalo at petsmart.

Chances are that the dog isn't getting all the necessary nutrients out of the food and/or is not fully digesting it.

Just remember to switch food gradually, over the course of a week or so.
Thanks for the reply.

She eats Iams. I thought that was supposed to be a good one?
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Old 05-02-2009, 09:58   #535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blinky View Post
Switch to a better food. You can pick up Blue Buffalo at petsmart.

Chances are that the dog isn't getting all the necessary nutrients out of the food and/or is not fully digesting it.

Just remember to switch food gradually, over the course of a week or so.
Just added Blue Buffalo to my dog's diet. Still mixing with Nutro Natural Lamb & Rice.

It's a little pricey but I've noticed they are eating MUCH less.

If you go to their website http://www.bluebuff.com/ they will send you a $5.00 coupon!
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Old 05-02-2009, 10:52   #536
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Just added Blue Buffalo to my dog's diet. Still mixing with Nutro Natural Lamb & Rice.

It's a little pricey but I've noticed they are eating MUCH less.

If you go to their website http://www.bluebuff.com/ they will send you a $5.00 coupon!
Thanks! Just did.
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Old 05-02-2009, 10:56   #537
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Thanks for the reply.

She eats Iams. I thought that was supposed to be a good one?
Iams isn't the worst, but there are better foods out there. The quick test to look to see if a food is right or not, is to look at the ingredients. The things you want to avoid are lots of flour, wheat and corn. They are just filler ingredients and offer no nutritional value. If we look at comparable types of food from both companies you'll see what I mean. I'm just looking at the first few ingredients.

Iams Adult ProActive Health: Chicken, Corn Meal, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum, Chicken By-Product Meal, Chicken Fat ...

Iams Healthy Natural: Chicken, Chicken By-Product Meal, Brewers Rice, Corn Meal, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum, Ground Whole Grain Barley....

Blue Buffalo Large Breed All Natural: Deboned Chicken, Chicken Meal, Whole Ground Brown Rice, Whole Ground Barley, Oatmeal....


The ProActive is pretty much crap. Corn meal as the second ingredient means stay away.

I will say that the Iams Healthy Natural, isn't so bad, but I'd be willing to bet that you can buy a much better food for the same price. The red flags for me are the chicken by-product meal and the corn meal. By-products are all the things not fit for human consumption, no thank you. We already mentioned corn, so I won't go into that again.

Now, in all fairness,the oatmeal in the Blue Buffalo isn't really going to do anything for the dog, but since it's not one of the first three ingredients, It's not going to make a huge difference. It's the chicken, chicken meal (not by-product) and the rice that are going to have the biggest positive impact on the dog.

There are plenty of great foods out there besides Blue Buffalo also, you just need to know what to look for. Don't be discouraged by the price either, with a high quality food you won't need to feed the dog as much.
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Last edited by Blinky; 05-02-2009 at 11:46.. Reason: friggin typos...
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Old 05-02-2009, 11:16   #538
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Thank you sir. I send off for a $5 coupon as listed above. I think I'll make the gradual change.
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Old 05-02-2009, 11:35   #539
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Thank you sir. I send off for a $5 coupon as listed above. I think I'll make the gradual change.
Cool, let me know if the poop eating still continues. If it does, I'd give the meat tenderizer one more try since you'll have a better food. If that doesn't work we'll have to look at other things to try.
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Old 06-29-2009, 15:15   #540
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Hey Blinky. Thanks for keeping up this thread. I found it last week and started reading from the beginning. I hadn't realized G20 had past away until I came upon your post. After reading his countless posts I felt as if I had lost a personal friend myself. I am very sorry for your loss as I can tell you two got real close during the course of this thread.

On to my dog. I have a 10 week old GSD. I got him at a day before his 6th birthday because 1. I didnt know better so that was my fault, and 2. the breeder fed me a line. He told me that the puppies were weined at 4 weeks so he said it was ok to seperate them from mom so young. So I took his advice and took the puppy home. I know now that his socialization suffered because of it. So i have been trying to socialize him on my own which seems to be working pretty well. He is very well adjusted. My question is housetraining related. He has learned sit, down, and we are currently working with stay. He picked those up REALLY fast. He isn't 100% reliable yet because his attentin span is pretty small, but he is really doing well. The housetraining is not going so well. I've been tethering him like you guys recommend and it works in minimizing the accidents but mostly because I am quicker at catching him before he actually has an accident. When he gets outside he absolutely knows the grass is where he needs to go potty. Soon as he gets to the grass, he is going. But he doenst seem to understand that he ISN'T suppose to go in the house. I've had him for 4 weeks and its still not really sinking in. Should I remain patient with him in hopes he will get it or should I try something different? My current methods are:

1. Crate training (which went well. He still gets a little whiney when I leave the room but that only lasts for about 15 seconds and then he settles in).
2. I take him out every 2 hours on the hour. I take him out 30 minutes after eating (630am, 1230pm, 630pm). And i take him out whenever he looks like he is going to make a mess (or after he has started making a mess if i wasn't quick enough).
3. I praise like mad when he goes on the grass and if he goes in the house i use a stern NO but i do not hit or correct further. (prior to this thread I wasn't reacting at all to going in the house. I was praising when he went outside and then ignoring the behavior inside other then rushing himside if he was in the act).

I am worried I am expecting too much out of him being that he is still only 10 weeks old. But i feel like as intelligent as he is he should be getting it and fear that I am confusing him or just not doing something right. He did have round worms that we have treated him for, I am not sure if that has anything to do with it, but I have been working closely with my vet and my pup is very healthy otherwise.

Again, thank you for keeping this thread going. Mike would be proud.
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Old 06-29-2009, 18:56   #541
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First of all, thank you. I just hope I can do Mike justice here.

The roundworms can play a roll here. They can cause diarrhea and vomiting in young animals. How long ago was he treated for that?

As far as expecting too much from him, I'm not to worried about that. From the moment puppies are born, they are taught the rules of the pack from their mother. The main thing that humans have to worry about is not being able to find the balance between being calm and correcting the behavior.

You remember watching the "Set it and forget it!" infomercials? That's the approach you need to take with all corrections "Correct it and forget it!" If you've got him on leash, then a gentle tug coupled with the stern "NO" will be all you need. Remember, the purpose of the correction is not to punish, it is to redirect the dogs attention to you.

Now onto your issue:

First, is there just one spot that he goes in when he's inside? I'm sure you're probably doing this, but you absolutely have to make sure that when you clean up the mess, that it is totally clean. Dogs experience the world with their nose first and you have to make sure that the smell is totally gone.

Second, has he done it in the kennel recently?

Third, Can you think of anything that would link the accidents together? Is he excited? Are you excited? Is it before or after you do an activity? Is it before he gets fed? etc...

Since he's a young, energetic puppy, it would benefit you both to work on training patience. This is going to help his attention span issues, which may, in turn, help the accidents too.

Your job is to create associations for him. You want to start associating everything with relaxation. Starting thinking in his terms, everything has a meaning. Change feeding time to a feeding ritual. The bowl does not get placed on the ground until he is calm and relaxed.

When you get home, he doesn't get acknowledged until you are ready and he is calm and relaxed. I think you can see where I'm going with this. What this will start to create for you is the ability to see changes in behavior easier.

If he is relaxed, then out of the blue he starts to sniff around or whimper, that's a sign that something is going on.

Couple that with keeping him tethered to you should start to see some results.

On some other notes, how well are the walks going?

and also, you broke the cardinal rule! We need pics of the little guy!!
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Old 06-29-2009, 19:26   #542
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Third, Can you think of anything that would link the accidents together? Is he excited? Are you excited? Is it before or after you do an activity? Is it before he gets fed? etc...


and also, you broke the cardinal rule! We need pics of the little guy!!
To emphasize this advice. My Missy is just over 7 months old, and 65 lbs. She will give the signs she needs to go out side. We will be out back sometimes she finds her spot and goes, other times she will just look at me like OK now what?

So I will throw her ball several times. Usually about the 3rd to 4th throw she will go to the ball, stop, sniff and then pee a couple of feet away forgetting all about the ball. I will retrieve it and after 3 to 4 more throws she might all of a sudden forget about the ball again as she squats to poop.

It is all a matter of how bad she needs to go and what other distractions might be around, but it seems like the excitement of chasing the ball breaks everything free. One of her socialization playmates (about 4 months old) pees almost every time they get together. DANCE, DANCE, PEE, Dance in the pee as she strains on her leash with one thing on her mind. PLAY PLAY PLAY.

<a href="http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee305/Poppa315/?action=view&current=Missy75Months.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee305/Poppa315/Missy75Months.jpg" border="0" alt="Missy 7 1/2 Months old"></a>
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Old 06-29-2009, 23:19   #543
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Hi Blinky,

I was hoping you could share some of your wisdom with a recent rescue dog I saved. He’s a 7yr old Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever…whew! I’ve had him for about 3 days now.

Here’s a little background on him. He was dropped off at a local rescue recently after spending his whole life w/ the same family. A couple kids aged 5-13 and a couple cats. He was garaged for almost 8-10 hours a day with no interaction. He had free roam of the garage. He was given up because the parents just didn’t have enough time for him. He has been to obedience school and is very smart according to his previous trainers and the rescue. Knows 10-12 commands, good on a leash, doesn’t chew (even his toys), etc.

My problem is that he constantly whines/whimpers. Now, from what I was told from the rescue that had him for about a week is that he whines when he needs/wants something. He also understand the command “quiet”, but stops for a few seconds, then commences to whine again.

I’m sure it doesn’t help that he is in his third home in less than a week and was literally dropped off by his previous owners. There’s probably a ton of anxiety and stress being in a new place.

How should I approach this situation to ease his transition? Is there anything I can do? I am able to work from home, so I’m with him 24/7, but don’t want to leave him alone for fear something going wrong. He also has diarrhea, but that’s probably from being in new setting. He’s also vomited a few times. I have a cat as well and he’s good w/ cats….and my cat avoids him. There doesn’t seem to be a problem there.

Man, I need some sleep…..help a brother out!
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:20   #544
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Johnny, the nice thing about your issues is that you have the history of the dog.

The first thing I'm going to tell you is to not to feel sorry or bad about his past. Obviously there was nothing you could do about it and focusing on it now will not help him at all.

You need to give the dog what he's been missing all his life, stability and a routine. The first aspect of that is exercise. Obviously walks are key and should be done at least once a day, but you need to get that guy out in the water! Now, I know doing that everyday is going to be impossible, but you should do it as much as you can. It's in his DNA to get out there and once he starts to wake that part of himself up again, you're going to notice a dog that is going to be more relaxed.

On the walks I suggest getting him a backpack. What you're doing there is giving him a job to do. Now the walks have meaning to him. It's now more than just going outside to sniff around and find a place to potty. It's now about getting that important cargo (a couple of water bottles, or his treats) to it's destination.

What that will accomplish for you, is getting him tired, both physically and mentally. If he is concentrating on carrying is cargo, then when he gets home, he'll be too tired to worry about much else.

After the walk is when you want to feed him. Here we want to use nature to our advantage. Think about it, if you're tired and full, what do you want to do? REST!

I talked about the feeding ritual a little bit before, but you need to make that time a calm and relaxing time for him. Make sure that the bowl isn't put down until he is calm and after 10 minuets the bowl should be pick up and put away.

The walks and feeding need to be done on a consistent schedule. By doing this, you're taking the guess work out of it and eventually your guy is going to understand when things are going to happen.

The other big issue here is learning when to give affection. The key here is to remember that affection will reinforce the specific behavior that your dog is exhibiting. For example, if he is anxious and you pet him, you are rewarding him for being anxious. Always keep that in mind when you're interacting with him. You have to remember that not only does petting equal affection but food does also.
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:38   #545
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First of all, thank you. I just hope I can do Mike justice here.
I am confident that you have succeeded.

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The roundworms can play a roll here. They can cause diarrhea and vomiting in young animals. How long ago was he treated for that?
3.5 weeks ago was his treatment. He was prescribed Interceptor by my vet which evidently is a 1 pill every 30 days treatment.

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As far as expecting too much from him, I'm not to worried about that. From the moment puppies are born, they are taught the rules of the pack from their mother. The main thing that humans have to worry about is not being able to find the balance between being calm and correcting the behavior.

You remember watching the "Set it and forget it!" infomercials? That's the approach you need to take with all corrections "Correct it and forget it!" If you've got him on leash, then a gentle tug coupled with the stern "NO" will be all you need. Remember, the purpose of the correction is not to punish, it is to redirect the dogs attention to you.
I dont have anything to really comment on this but I didnt want you to think I ignored it, so thanks for the advice. I will definitely work on it.

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First, is there just one spot that he goes in when he's inside? I'm sure you're probably doing this, but you absolutely have to make sure that when you clean up the mess, that it is totally clean. Dogs experience the world with their nose first and you have to make sure that the smell is totally gone.
I have been very diligent in cleaning up the messes, both for his benefit and my own. I have been using the Natures Miracle Advanced spray to clean up the smell so he can't smell it anymore, which seems to work really well. He doesn't have a favorite spot where he goes. Basically just wherever he is at when he gets the urge.

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Second, has he done it in the kennel recently?
The last time he has went in his crate was a week ago. I got him a new crate (I was concerned about air flow in his old crate as it gets hotter in the evenings so i got him a wired crate). I think it was a combinatin of too large of a partition that I gave him coupled with "this isn't my den." He has been really good since.


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Third, Can you think of anything that would link the accidents together? Is he excited? Are you excited? Is it before or after you do an activity? Is it before he gets fed? etc...
It tends to be somewhere within 30 minutes of his regular trip outside. Kind of like he hits his point that he can't hold it anymore. So I would cut down his intervals to only 1.5 hours thinking he can't hold it 2 hours just yet. And he will pee within 30 minutes of THAT interval. So I increased it back to 2 hours and watch him like a hawk.

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Since he's a young, energetic puppy, it would benefit you both to work on training patience. This is going to help his attention span issues, which may, in turn, help the accidents too.

Your job is to create associations for him. You want to start associating everything with relaxation. Starting thinking in his terms, everything has a meaning. Change feeding time to a feeding ritual. The bowl does not get placed on the ground until he is calm and relaxed.

When you get home, he doesn't get acknowledged until you are ready and he is calm and relaxed. I think you can see where I'm going with this. What this will start to create for you is the ability to see changes in behavior easier.

If he is relaxed, then out of the blue he starts to sniff around or whimper, that's a sign that something is going on.

Couple that with keeping him tethered to you should start to see some results.
I will definitely work on that. How stubborn do I need to be? We kind of have a battle of wills at times. With it involving feeding time, do I stick it out until he calms down regardless of time frame?

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On some other notes, how well are the walks going?
Walks go really well. He has taken to the leash easily. He has started to pull on the leash recently. I am not using a prong colar, just a buckle colar right now. Which I am definitely open to using if you don't think he is too young for it. His focus on me isn't what I would want but I am not sure if its cause of his age or if its cause of lack of training. Once I get his attention while working with him, I have his attention. But I lose it easily with distractions. The buckle colar really doesnt do much in the area of getting him to redirect his attention to me. But I also didn't want to move too quickly into the prong collar/choke collar and him have a bad experience that'll scar him.

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and also, you broke the cardinal rule! We need pics of the little guy!!
Haha, my apologies. Here you go....I'll give a few extra for my penance:

<a href="http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j159/bk9360/McBain/?action=view&current=photo_001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j159/bk9360/McBain/photo_001.jpg" border="0" alt="6 Weeks"></a>
The night I brought him home.

<a href="http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j159/bk9360/McBain/?action=view&current=photo.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j159/bk9360/McBain/photo.jpg" border="0" alt="McBain 7 weeks"></a>
At 7 Weeks down at the office with me.

<a href="http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j159/bk9360/McBain/?action=view&current=Mcbain_Bob2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j159/bk9360/McBain/Mcbain_Bob2.jpg" border="0" alt="McBain and Bob 2"></a>
Playing with Bob, my sister's 3 y/o male lab.

<a href="http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j159/bk9360/McBain/?action=view&current=photo-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j159/bk9360/McBain/photo-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Mcbain and Bob 1"></a>
Chasing Bob
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Old 06-30-2009, 18:01   #546
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I am confident that you have succeeded.
You're too kind
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3.5 weeks ago was his treatment. He was prescribed Interceptor by my vet which evidently is a 1 pill every 30 days treatment.
OK, that good because it rules that out


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I have been very diligent in cleaning up the messes, both for his benefit and my own. I have been using the Natures Miracle Advanced spray to clean up the smell so he can't smell it anymore, which seems to work really well. He doesn't have a favorite spot where he goes. Basically just wherever he is at when he gets the urge.
That's good too, Natures Miracle is great stuff so I know the odor is gone. This also tells me that he's actually having "accidents" and it's not becoming a learned behavior by continually going on one spot.

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The last time he has went in his crate was a week ago. I got him a new crate (I was concerned about air flow in his old crate as it gets hotter in the evenings so i got him a wired crate). I think it was a combinatin of too large of a partition that I gave him coupled with "this isn't my den." He has been really good since.
The main thing about the crate, as I'm sure you've read in this thread, that it's no bigger than he is. He should have just enough room to turn around and nothing should be in there to be able to soak up anything.

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It tends to be somewhere within 30 minutes of his regular trip outside. Kind of like he hits his point that he can't hold it anymore. So I would cut down his intervals to only 1.5 hours thinking he can't hold it 2 hours just yet. And he will pee within 30 minutes of THAT interval. So I increased it back to 2 hours and watch him like a hawk.
This actually reminds me of something that I forgot in my first post. His he urinating more or is it both? If it is more urinating, do you have water available for him at all times?


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I will definitely work on that. How stubborn do I need to be? We kind of have a battle of wills at times. With it involving feeding time, do I stick it out until he calms down regardless of time frame?
Yes, this part may take some time. After the walk, while you're preparing his food, make sure he gives you some space. If your hands are full, use your feet to gently push him away. Once you've got the food into the bowl, hold it up off of the ground at chest height. Again, if he tries to go for it, a curt "NO" and a body/foot block is OK. This is where you have to wait it out. Since he's young, what you should be looking for is the exact moment he relaxes/sits/stands there looking at you/focuses on something besides the food etc... Pretty soon that will become the routine for him. As he gets older you need to start asking for more, like a down & stay until you're ready. But for now, baby steps is where it's at.

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Walks go really well. He has taken to the leash easily. He has started to pull on the leash recently. I am not using a prong colar, just a buckle colar right now. Which I am definitely open to using if you don't think he is too young for it. His focus on me isn't what I would want but I am not sure if its cause of his age or if its cause of lack of training. Once I get his attention while working with him, I have his attention. But I lose it easily with distractions. The buckle colar really doesnt do much in the area of getting him to redirect his attention to me. But I also didn't want to move too quickly into the prong collar/choke collar and him have a bad experience that'll scar him.
Yeah, a flat buckle collar is good for now. You want to wait a few months before you use a training collar.

When he starts to pull, you need to stop walking and wait it out. Again you are looking for the exact moment that he sits etc... then you continue the walk. You may take 20 minuets to make it out of the driveway, but that is 20 minuets well spent when considering you'll have a great friend for the next 15 years!

Remember one thing though, it's less about the tools then it is about the person using them. When working with him, you need to be in the right mindset. That means you have to be, to steal from Cesar Millan, calm and assertive. The moment you start to get frustrated, end the session ASAP and take your focus off of the dog. When you get frustrated everything you do will no effect besides exciting your dog and further frustrating you.

Since he you did get him at that young age, you do have a little bit of an up hill battle here, but if you are able to relax and work though it (it seems that you are) you'll have a great reward waiting for you in a true friend!
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Old 06-30-2009, 18:13   #547
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This actually reminds me of something that I forgot in my first post. His he urinating more or is it both? If it is more urinating, do you have water available for him at all times?
He is urinating more. I do keep water down for him all the time, is this wrong? I've kept food to regular intervals but I have kept a water bowl (which he drinks a lot) down all the time.

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Remember one thing though, it's less about the tools then it is about the person using them. When working with him, you need to be in the right mindset. That means you have to be, to steal from Cesar Millan, calm and assertive. The moment you start to get frustrated, end the session ASAP and take your focus off of the dog. When you get frustrated everything you do will no effect besides exciting your dog and further frustrating you.
This reminds me of a question (they are addicting). How much crate time is too much crate time? I am fortunate to have a job in which I can bring him to work with me (which I do the majority of the time). But when I get home, sometimes I just want down time without having to chase down a puppy (I know it kind of sounds bad when I type it out) especially if he has been with me all day at work. He is too young to play unsupervised in the backyard and too young to play unsupervised in the house which leaves me with 2 options. Crate him or supervise him until bed time. I dont want to overuse the crate. Though I know that its a happy place for him, I dont want him to get to a point in which it ceases to be a happy place becuase he is there all the time.

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Since he you did get him at that young age, you do have a little bit of an up hill battle here, but if you are able to relax and work though it (it seems that you are) you'll have a great reward waiting for you in a true friend!
Thanks for all your help Blinky. I can read all the books I want but to have a live person to talk with and bounce ideas off of is a great asset. I really appreciate it.
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Old 06-30-2009, 19:53   #548
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He is urinating more. I do keep water down for him all the time, is this wrong? I've kept food to regular intervals but I have kept a water bowl (which he drinks a lot) down all the time.
Yeah, let's ease up on the water. Offer it at feeding time and after walks/long play sessions. Dog's don't need access to water 24/7 like most people think. I mean, do you? Remember food and water are resources. If you control the resources, you control the situation and that is what dominance in the animal world means.

Plus less water in = less pee out!


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This reminds me of a question (they are addicting). How much crate time is too much crate time? I am fortunate to have a job in which I can bring him to work with me (which I do the majority of the time). But when I get home, sometimes I just want down time without having to chase down a puppy (I know it kind of sounds bad when I type it out) especially if he has been with me all day at work. He is too young to play unsupervised in the backyard and too young to play unsupervised in the house which leaves me with 2 options. Crate him or supervise him until bed time. I dont want to overuse the crate. Though I know that its a happy place for him, I dont want him to get to a point in which it ceases to be a happy place becuase he is there all the time.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with feeling that way, even parents have baby sitters!

During the day I would try to keep the kennel time to a minimum. If he sleeps in there, that is fine, but since you said he seems to need to go to the bathroom every few hours, let that be your guide.

My suggestion is to get an(some) old baby gate(s) somewhere and gate off a non carpeted/puppy proofed portion of your house. That way he has some room to romp around while you take an hour or so to wind down and relax. You just have to get comfortable with the fact that if he has an accident in there, all you can do is clean it up and forget about it.

But, trust me, once you start putting the pieces together, he's going to be a joy to be around. Stay in there man!!



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Thanks for all your help Blinky. I can read all the books I want but to have a live person to talk with and bounce ideas off of is a great asset. I really appreciate it.
Not a problem, this is something that I really care about and enjoy doing.
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:52   #549
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Thanks Blinky. He really is a joy to be around now, 90% of the time. He gets into his moods just like I do which makes people around me laugh. He has a great personality and is very expressive. It's just taking time to figure out how to communicate with him what I expect of him. I know I am making mistakes but with yours and Mike's help, I know I'm making a lot fewer of them. Its amazing how much goes into having a companion as opposed to just a dog. A lot of people look at me cross eyed when I tell them all that I work do in working with my pup and whats involved. I have to tell them that I didnt get him to have as a backyard ornament. I got him to be my best friend.
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Old 07-01-2009, 18:45   #550
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He gets into his moods just like I do which makes people around me laugh.
That is so awesome that you recognize that. One of the biggest things that people miss when it comes to interacting with their animals is just how much they have an affect on their mood/personality/behavior.

If someones dog is acting out, people are too quick to wash their hands of the situation and wonder what is wrong with their dog. It becomes a issue of pride and they cannot admit they, ultimately, are the root of the issues.

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It's just taking time to figure out how to communicate with him what I expect of him. I know I am making mistakes but with yours and Mike's help, I know I'm making a lot fewer of them. Its amazing how much goes into having a companion as opposed to just a dog.
And it will take time. If you really think about it, you are learning a second language, it just happens to be more of an unspoken one.

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A lot of people look at me cross eyed when I tell them all that I work do in working with my pup and whats involved. I have to tell them that I didnt get him to have as a backyard ornament. I got him to be my best friend.
Yes, but in time, people are going to rave about how awesome of a dog you have. It is a lot of work now, but in the grand scheme of things, it is a small price to pay for a life time of companionship. Learning how to communicate in way that he'll understand is going to bring about amazing things and you'll have an amazing friend always by your side.
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