In addition, and with what Tazz stated above in mind, please consider that reloading the 10mm to its optimum performance level requires the deliberation, experience and understanding of a “well-seasoned” (a.k.a. experienced) handloader. If you are new to handloading/reloading, PLEASE, do not attempt to make your first experience of this hobby by reading the information in this forum and attempting to create full-power 10mm ammo.
Some things to bear in mind while reading the data and experiences related in this forum:
· Factory Glock barrels have loose chambers and less feed-ramp support than is needed to safely fire many of these loads. Glock purposefully makes their chambers this way so that their pistols are ultra-reliable under field conditions. Some people list loads here that are maximum in their factory Glock barrels, while others list loads that are for use in “fully-supported chambers” or chambers which are tighter and better supported than the factory version. You must watch the information provided by posters to these threads, as to whether they used a factory Glock barrel, or a better-supported after-market barrel, and proceed accordingly.
· Factory Glock recoil springs are all 17-lbs, regardless of the caliber of the Glock they are in (with the exception of the sub-compacts dual-spring systems). MANY of the loads expressed in these threads require not only an after-market barrel (with its better chamber-support), BUT ALSO a heavier-weight recoil spring. ISMI and Wolf are two companies that really know their springs and seem to be whom most 10mm handloaders use. Check with them about 20-lb, 22-lb, or 24-lb springs. Depending on your gun’s set-up, you might need different striker and magazine springs as well.
In other words, you must not only be an experienced handloader, you must also understand the nuances of setting up your pistol to safely take advantage of these high-performance loads.
Please, please, PLEASE, invest in a copy of Ken Waters’ “Pet Loads” from Wolfe Publishing. In the first chapter of the book, Ken explains his system for measuring case head expansion in order to compare where the handloader is at in relative pressure with his loads. If you follow his system carefully, you will remain safe. All handloaders owe a debt of gratitude to Ken for developing this system. It is the most precise system we can get without investing in real pressure-measuring equipment.
A personal note about Waters’ head-expansion-measurement system and the 10mm Auto cartridge: The basis of Waters’ method is to fire some HIGH PERFORMANCE factory ammo in your gun, and measure how much the case heads expanded just above the web of the case. This measurement (possibly plus 5 ten-thousandths to one thousandth) will then indicate to you the max loads you should be loading to as you carefully work up from below. In the case of the 10mm, my advice is this: If you are using original Norma ammo (from the 80s) and/or Double-Tap, Buffalo Bore, Cor-Bon, Winchester Silvertips (from the early 90s), or Texas Ammunition (out of business for some time now) for your reference loads, DO NOT ADD ANY ten-thousandths or thousandths to your case head measurement for your handloaded “max loads.” These factory loads are very hot, and at the absolute top end of what you should expect from any load in a 10mm firearm. One of the greatest benefits of being a 10mm shooter is that we can get real full-power ammo from these sources. Of course, it’s still fun, cheaper, and more flexible to be able to load our own, but don’t expect to beat the performance of these factory loads by anything close to a wide margin. It just won’t happen; at least, safely.