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Old 05-05-2012, 08:25   #1
Redstate
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Gen 4 G26 Recoil Spring Issue

Just got my new Gen 4 G26. Field stripped it and noticed how easily the recoil spring came out (very little tension).

I then noticed that if I rode the slide a little to reset the trigger, as opposed to letting it go, the slide would not go into full battery. I chalked it up to a need for break-in, although I have never had such a thing happen with any of the various Glocks I own.

Fired 50 rounds of 124 gr. Lawman and 50 rounds of WWB. It ran perfectly. Brass going where it supposed to and no issues of any kind.

Go to field strip it. Can't get the slide off. Yep, the magazine was out and the trigger pulled. I'm thinking WTH. Turns out the the recoil spring had fallen out of its retention slot and I had to pull back on it to re-seat it in order to get the slide off. Now it appears that my reciever has a little gouge mark where the recoil spring may have caught it when I tried to get the slide off.

Okay, I am a bit perplexed and am foucsing on the recoil spring as the cause of the issue. It still does not go into full battery if I don't let the slide go back fast.

I have a Gen 3 G27 and G26. I thought I would try the recoil springs of those 2 and there was no issue with the slide going to full battery no matter how I rode it.

The recoil spring looks a lot different form those on my Gen 3's. It has the numbers (going counterclockwise) 0, 1(or it could be a 7) and 8.

Questions: Anyone have a similar issue? Anyone know anything about whether these new recoil springs are designed to have what appears to be less tension, or maybe I just got a weak one, or maybe my diagnosis it incorrect? Any other thoughs are welcome.

Oh, by the way, I do plan on going out and shooting it again today to see if the problem with the slide not coming off duplicates. This is my main concern.

EDIT: Note that riding the slide and it not going into full battery was being done without a magazine in the pistol or with an empty magazine in the pistol. Of course, there was no round in the chamber(empty gun).

Last edited by Redstate; 05-06-2012 at 20:50..
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:41   #2
Brad55102
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i would give Glock a call.
you probably got a bad spring.
they will send you a new one
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:10   #3
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I've heard that the new 0-8 and 0-8-1 sub-compact guide rods are a little weaker but I've never used one. I agree with Brad, call Glock. With the unloaded gun, the slide should go into battery while slowly easing the slide forward.

If the little gouge in the frame looks like this, it's normal. It's pretty common in sub-compacts and Gen4's, some have it and some don't. It's not a problem, that area just didn't get filled in with plastic thoroughly, and that plastic isn't structurally important.
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:30   #4
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Thanks for the responses thus far. I will call Glock on Monday to see if I can get a new recoil spring.

Voyager, thanks for the photo; that is not the mark. The mark was not there before I shot it. The mark is near the tip of the little bullet shaped mold mark forward of the mark to which you refer and behind the serial number plate slot. It is a minor gouge like mark.
Not too concerned about the mark. I just think it was caused when I tried to pull the slide off when the recoil spring metal end may have got stuck there.
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:35   #5
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Here's a thread about a similar wear mark:
http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1347335
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:25   #6
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Update. But, first, thank you again,Voyager, for the link. That photo in the link shows what appears to be wear in the approximate area of mine. Mine, however, is more toward the tip of the bullet shaped mold mark and is extremely minor in comparison. My "gouge" is more of like the thinness of the metal end of the recoil spring. It looks like the end it just kind of caught in there and then there is a very slight scuff in front of the "gouge". The "gouge" is also very shallow. Maybe "gouge" isn't the right word to describe it. Bottom line is that it is extremely minor.

Now for the update. Put 50 rounds of Blazer Aluminum through it. It ran with Glock Perfection, just like the previous 100 rounds mentioned above. After every 10 rounds in the first 30, I took the slide off with no problem. After the last 20 rounds, I took the slide off with no problem and observed that the "gouge" has not changed. Still extremely minor. Nevertheless, it still will not go into full battery when empty if I ride the slide.

By the way, this little Gen 4 G26 is a great little shooter. At this point, I don't know whether I like it better than my Gen 3 G26 in so far as its feel. Using it with no backstrap attachment.

Last edited by Redstate; 05-05-2012 at 12:26..
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Old 09-09-2012, 16:59   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voyager4520 View Post
Here's a thread about a similar wear mark:
http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1347335
Sorry about the off-topic, but does anybody have any idea why when I click on the link above I get this message ?
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.38 super, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

1.Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?

2.If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.
It also happens when I try to open my own posts...
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Old 09-09-2012, 19:15   #8
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^ If a thread is really old it can't be accessed any more.
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Old 10-25-2012, 14:47   #9
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I recently (as in 2 weeks ago) got my g26 Gen4 and it has the same failure to cycle into battery you are describing. My Glock had a test fire date of June 12th this year so it's a new RSA, so a replacement would be the same thing. I honestly think it may be because (at least in my case) of the gouge in the plastic that was pointed out in a previous post. Mine is huge and it seems that this is where it is sticking. I've had 150 rds of cheap **** PMC 115gr standard pressure ball through it to break it in and it still does it. One thing I have noticed though, is that when trying to replicate the problem for the photos below, I had trouble keeping the slide in it's "jammed" state. What i mean is, if I slightly swing the gun around at all it kicks forward. When it was new outta box, before the 150 rds and a clean and lube, it was way more firmly locked into this position.

Is this where yours locks up at?

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and here's that huge gouge I was talking about...

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Last edited by ScumPunisher; 10-25-2012 at 14:53.. Reason: photos
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Old 11-07-2012, 19:12   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScumPunisher View Post
I recently (as in 2 weeks ago) got my g26 Gen4 and it has the same failure to cycle into battery you are describing. My Glock had a test fire date of June 12th this year so it's a new RSA, so a replacement would be the same thing.
Did you ever figure out a solution? I just picked up a Gen 4 G26 today (with a test fire date of June 11th 2012) and it's behaving the same way yours is. It looks identical to the picture you took.
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Old 10-25-2012, 14:49   #11
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Originally Posted by voyager4520 View Post
^ If a thread is really old it can't be accessed any more.
That's too bad isn't it ? Is it any way I can access an archive ?
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Old 10-29-2012, 18:53   #12
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My new gen 4 26 that I purchased last thur 10/24/12 failed to go into battery when I inserted a full mag into it and tried to chamber the first rd. If I bumped the slide a little it went in to battery. It looked just like the picture above and it has the same scratch mark in the same location. Maybe not as deep. RSA 0 8 1.

I shot 50 rds thru it sat and then took it down for inspection. The scratch seems to be about the same but now it has scuff marks behind the the scratch going toward the slide lock.
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Old 10-30-2012, 18:07   #13
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Order a SS guide rod and call it good
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Old 03-10-2013, 16:12   #14
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38 Super, I get the same message when I try the link.

Last edited by Farmalljon; 03-10-2013 at 16:15..
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Old 03-10-2013, 21:29   #15
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38 Super, I get the same message when I try the link.
It's an old thread but sometimes I like to dig in old threads for reference and getting to this message is confusing, because I don't think that my account is limited or something... One of the members here did explain it to me but still - there are plenty of busy forums where they archive old threads...
I wish my saved threads were preserved... Most of them disappeared too...
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:38   #16
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I was a little worried when I first got my Gen4 G26. If I manipulated it just right, I could get it to get out of battery but it would always come back into battery if I moved it even just a tad. I went and shot it and stopped worrying.
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:51   #17
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All Glock RSAs fall out of the assembly notch the first time the slide is cycled. That's why if you just take the slide off without disassembling it further, you need to make sure to push the RSA back into the notch before returning the slide to the frame.

The function test for spring pressure is to point the pistol straight up and let the slide ride forward while keeping the trigger pulled to the rear.
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Old 05-05-2012, 17:07   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtlmj View Post
All Glock RSAs fall out of the assembly notch the first time the slide is cycled. That's why if you just take the slide off without disassembling it further, you need to make sure to push the RSA back into the notch before returning the slide to the frame.
...
I understand that they do move slightly out of the notch; but, I think this one came out further than normal because it appeared to be what hung up. It was only after I was able to re-seat it that the slide came off. It wasn't easy to re-seat (difficult to get fingers in there). I may be wrong; but, I can't think of any other reason, based on the "gouge" and the fact that slide came off easily after I re-seated the RSA.

Also, I am positive that it was properly seated before I shot it. I always check on all my Glocks to make sure the RSA is properly seated before I put the slide back on. It is habit.

EDIT: Although I am "positive" that I properly seated the RSA before firing, I am imperfect, and I could have screwed up that time.

Last edited by Redstate; 05-05-2012 at 18:11..
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:34   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtlmj View Post
All Glock RSAs fall out of the assembly notch the first time the slide is cycled. That's why if you just take the slide off without disassembling it further, you need to make sure to push the RSA back into the notch before returning the slide to the frame.

The function test for spring pressure is to point the pistol straight up and let the slide ride forward while keeping the trigger pulled to the rear.
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Old 05-05-2012, 18:32   #20
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All my glocks (and Baer 1911's) will not return to battery if you ride the slide or otherwise improperly operate the pistol (jam it into someones gut or into a car window for example). Good news is it will not blow up in your face and fire out of battery. Revolvers are better for that scenario.

Go run 1000 rounds through it and this will become a non-issue. Mine is on the 3500 mark or so with zero issues.
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