Originally Posted by WiskyT
I just got in email contact with the smith. He wants to see the gun and will be there Thursday, so I'm looking forward to that. He attached two targets that he shot from two different guns, both with Kart barrels which have no leade. He said the accuracy was "typical". They were 10 shot groups measuring 2.25" at 50 yards.
So it's not simply a matter of "right" and "wrong" apparently. It's probably going to be a matter of what the gun is being used for.
They should all have a leade... they are either 'blueprint' or they are not.
Photo excerpted from the '42 Blueprint
Read this before you turn somebody loose on your barrel. The important point is in the first post:
Barrel Chamber Misunderstandings
Perhaps most smiths donít realize the chambers are not cut. It is very easy to tell if one has been done or not. For example, every Kart barrel I have fit has a bump in the chamber from the factory. It is apparently part of their barrel making process that leaves a slight raised area in the chamber. The bump is not a problem unless it is not removed. If left as is, I believe it can cause broken extractors, failures to feed and eject, not to mention accuracy suffers greatly.
Just as an aside, I take stock Rock Island, Auto Ord. etc. 1911's with stock barrels and get them holding 5 shots inside 3 1/2" at 50 yards, just by fitting a bushing, squaring the bottom lugs (when necessary) and installing a slide stop with a 0.200" crosspin.
Yes, there are ways to make them put 10 shots under 2" at that distance, but eliminating the chamber leade is not one of them. Many bullseye shooters run a 200 grain LSWC of the H&G #68
pattern, loaded to 1.250" overall, and they will not seat in a short-chambered barrel.
I'm not trying to tell you your business here, but I would simply tell the guy I wanted the chamber reamed to SAAMI or USGI specs and ask- can you do it or not? Once you get there, your pistol will run WAY better and still have all the accuracy you'll likely ever need.