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Old 12-25-2012, 18:14   #10
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digilo's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: texas
Posts: 303
Originally Posted by cciman View Post
It seems you are leading the field on this one.
Stop teasing us with this mystery, what do you think the potential benefits could be for the barrel?

How are you applying this WS2 to the barrel, how long does it stay treated?

I see that it comes in a high temp grease form...I might be interested in using for my brake retainer pins. Alternatively, adding a small amount of powder into the crankcase of my racecar...hmm. Only problem is how much passes through the filter and whether it completely clogs the filter, or reduces flow...nah.

I ain't teasin'. :D I've used WS2 for a while on different things, and was wondering if anyone had experience on coating Glock bores with it.

The WS2 gets applied to a gun bore by suspending it in alcohol, and wetting the bore, and letting the alcohol evaporate. Then, if I read right, it is burnished in by one of several means, usually a rod and patch, and then by firing. Aside from (maybe) a small increase in velocity, it could make the bore easier to clean, and make it less susceptible to heat from the friction of the bullets, resulting in a cooler barrel. Again, these are things I have read, and am looking for experiences with the polygonal barrels. It works with rifle barrels. I can't remember the exact Google search phrase, it may have been "bore treat ws2" or something like that. I do know that I read that shooters got away from moly-coating bullets because the moly will form rings in the bore, and can cause a stuck bullet, or bulge the barrel, and there were stories of people ruining barrels with moly-coated bullets. Coating the bore directly seems to address the ring problem.

as for the car...

Man I wish I had this stuff when I was building motors. For grease, mix it with a good synthetic grease. I have some from the Mobil B&P I worked at, it was a grease made for NASA, hi-temp synthetic stuff, but any good synthetic grease + a little of the WS2 works. I used it when I rebuilt the front end on my '99 Ranger, the front axles and bearings. I drained a pint of lube from the rearend, mixed some WS2 powder with a pint or so of fresh gear lube, and poured it in. I saw a big difference just doing the rearend- 3 months later I got around to the front, and saw another difference. And I put some in the motor. This stuff is extremely fine, it embeds like molybdenum but is finer, and so you can imagine the particle size- so as far as oil filters, I haven't seen evidence of a problem- no drop in oil pressure. I run Mobil 1 synthetic and regular Fram filters, I change the filter about every 3000 miles or so, and the oil at around 10,000. It's a '99 3.0 V6, and it runs like new.

{Yes, you can go 10k on synthetic, at least with Mobil 1. Lisa M., senior lab tester at the Bmt B&P, tested some oil with various mileages, and Mobil 1 with 10,000 miles on it passed spec for new oil. Now, I have now way of proving this, and this is the Internet, land of BS, but it's the truth. }
Taste the wares, Email.

Last edited by digilo; 12-25-2012 at 18:14..
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