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Old 03-01-2010, 08:01   #9
byf43
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 13,502
Hi Monica!!!!!!

Before you go to the range, make sure that the barrel is clean and free of any of the 'factory' preservative/lube.
(Also, make sure to put some 'anti-seize' on the threads of the choketube, and make sure it is snug in the barrel!)

Now, your Mossberg is absolutely capable of shooting 'slugs'.
I'd suggest using either the Improved Cylinder (I/C) or the Modified (M or Mod) choketube.
Either way, you will most likely have a lot of lead removal ahead, from the barrel and choketube.

Now, because a shotgun barrel, such as a fully rifled barrel 'is' rifled, that doesn't make it a rifle.
Also, you CAN use 'sabot' rounds in your smoothbore barrel, but, you won't get the accuracy that you would with a fully rifled barrel.

(With a sabot slug, the sabot will separate from the slug, about 10 to 15 feet from the muzzle, and the slug will continue downrange and continue to spin due to the rifling.)

As for a 'rifled slug', that's actually a misnomer. The 'rifling' on the slug doesn't actually cause the slug to spin, according to most current tests.
These slugs are normally hollow on the back, sort of like a Badminton 'shuttlecock', and when fired, they 'open up' or expand (at the back) to fill the bore of the shotgun.
Plus, being made this way, makes them 'front-heavy', to help stabilize.

The "Brenneke" slugs are really good slugs, for use in HD and for dangerous game. They produce a big, gaping hole.

FWIW, I've gotten some good groups with a 'standard' rifled slug.

With slugs, be prepared for some substantial recoil, compared to either 'target' or 'game' loads.
That Mossberg is kinda light, and you'll feel it in your shoulder.
(Keep your face/cheek down on that stock, and keep it pulled tight into your shoulder!)


Lastly, it's good to see you, back on GT!!!!!!!
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Last edited by byf43; 03-01-2010 at 08:07..
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