Getting into reloading
 

I am about to buy a reloading setup. What I have decided on is a progressive loader. I want it as easy and dummy proof as I can get. I want to be able to pull the lever and a round come out.

I read this thread http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1027887 and I think I know what I need.

This is what I have decided on. Please let me know if I am missing anything.

Press: Hornady LnL AutoPress with all the shell plates for my calibers
Dial Calipers: Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...per-47257.html
Tumbler: RCBS http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/6-0810457 w/Corncob media
Bench: Still working on this.
Dies: RCBS 40, 45, 9, 223, 38/357 for now
2 manuals: Lymans & Hornady
Powder Scale: RCBS 505 http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/6-0800875
Case trimmer for rifle cases: Lyman http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/6-0810747
Bullet Puller: RCBS Power pull hammer

Am I missing anything? I am open to suggestions too. Like where to by the press that has it in stock.

That is a horrible idea. Learn to process with less automation not more automation.

People often think more is better and in this situation it can make you lazy and inattentive. It also will lead to a much steeper learning curve that is far more likely to lead to mistakes. Simpler is better.

Start with out all the add on devices for Cases and Bullets.

I am not learning the process. I used to reload with a single stage press but that was years ago. I have carpal tunnel in both wrists now and an injured elbow so I need this process to be easy on the arms and hands. My hands go numb shooting my AR after about 4 pmags so I want to take it easy on them.

I should have mentioned that but I did not think it would be an issue. That is my fault as the title is misleading. It should say getting BACK into reloading.

I am asking for a double check if you will over my list. It has been about 8 years since I last reloaded.

Disregard. I see what you highlighted now. That was supposed to be taken out. That is when I was looking into the Dillon Ammo Plant. My apologies. I will correct the OP.

Just buy factory ammo. You can NOT approach reloading w/ a handle puller attitude. That is a Darwin project at work & a KB waiting to happen. Relaoding is not rocket science, but to do it right & safely, YOU MUST BE DILIGENT. Handle pullers need not apply, sorry.:dunno: Reloading isn't for everyone, why there are ammo manuf.
Every press made requires you pull the handle, unless you want to buy a Camdex, $8-$10K. A 1050 wis probably the smoothest, easiest press to run, but it's complicated to setup & change over.

You guys are missing the gist of the OP. I know I will have to pull the handle and I know it requires diligence. I am not new to reloading or reloading mistakes.

Nevermind. I guess I worded my request wrong. You can disregard this post. I will get my information another way. I do appreciate you taking the time to respond so far.

If you have carpel tunnel I would get the 650. MUCH easier to push to prime then the LnL. Even better would be the 1050 that has no push to prime at all and is very smooth and easy to use. I fear the LnL would be too hard on your damaged parts.

Would you say it is harder than a Lee Single stage? That is what I had last.

It's harder then my Lee Classic Turret, Dillon 550 and 650 by about 50%. It's really had to judge that effort. I got tired of the LnL because of that exact issue.

If you do some Googling, you will find there is no shortage of threads complaining about the amount of force required to prime on the LNL. I read one post a while ago that said Hornady told him he needed "75lbs of force" to prime on the LNL. I've never used an LNL, but that seems pretty ridiculous.

If you have carpal tunnel, I would look somewhere other than the LNL, but that's just me. I personally love the 650. The 1050 gets rave reviews, but it's not really designed to change calibers that often, not to mention, it is expensive.

I'd also recommend starting with 1, straight wall pistol case until you get the hang of things, then move on to rifle.

Best of luck

For the record. Hornady is even on record that their press takes more pressure to push to prime then a Dillon. They say about 75lbs IIRC. It's a lot.

I don't have carpal tunnel, but I DO have rheumatoid arthritis, which ends up with very similar symptoms in my wrist/hands. I've found that the Dillon is the smoothest/easiest progressive press when it comes to priming.

I'm pretty sure you can hook up a bullet feeder to the 650 (definitely the 1050?) and with the casefeeder, it'd be pretty much just 'pull the handle and go'...

Whatever you decide, welcome back to the reloading world and good luck!

If you have the budget for it a Dillon 1050 with a bullet feeder and a Ponsness/Warren drive would be the best answer.

Thanks, that is exactly what I was looking for. I like Dillon's line much better but Hornady's prices were better but if it buys me wrist comfort, then Dillon it is. Maybe I can actually find those in stock. I never thought of the pressure needed to work the machine, only the action. Glad I posted this.

Nah.. Dillons are back ordered also (I think 3-5 weeks at the moment)..

Look at BrianEnos.com -- If you spend over $400, you get free shipping.

Excellent! Thanks! I am on Dillon's site now. The auto case feeder and powder check system are definitely going to be on it. Is there any reason not to trust a powder check die with audible alarm?

That powder check will basically tell you if you have a double charge, or no charge. My load spread is about .5gr and it isn't good for detecting a small difference like that.

Also, I have a noise-induced high-frequency hearing loss - from the Navy, not so much from other shooting. I couldn't even hear the stock piezo sounder in that alarm - but Dillon sent me a lower-frequency buzzer that they use in the primer alarm and I put that in the powder alarm and I can hear that.

The powder check die detects major differences in charge as SARDG pointed out.

Here's the thing about the 650 with auto-indexing, you are going to have to work VERY HARD to get a double charge. It just won't happen. So, the alarm is really looking for NO charge and that isn't going to happen either. Perhaps one possibility is having the powder bridge the funnel. It might be possible for this to happen with some stick powders.

Oddly, it is fairly easy, in concept, to get a double charge on a 550 and there is no place to add the alarm on that machine. The 550 is a manual indexing machine. Here's how you can get a double charge with almost no effort: You are loading .223 and you run up against a crimped case. It will decap just fine but the new primer will not seat properly. Sometimes, it will jam in the bottom of the case and sort of 'dangle'. As a result, you can't rotate the shell plate and you can't remove the case either. So, you run the ram up and decap the new primer. OOPS! You just double charged the case in station 2. Obviously, the proper procedure is to remove the charged case before decapping the live primer. Just something to think about!

On the 650, the shell plate is different and even if a primer 'dangles', the case can be removed without have to decap it. Deal with it later. Just move on... There will be an empty station as the process moves forward but so what?

I really like the 650. There are simply less opportunities to mess up.

Now, before the flame throwers light off, I have two 550s and a 450. I have used them for a very long time and I have never had a double charge get through the process. Never! But as I get older, I am losing my sense of infallibility. If the machine can help with the process, I'm all in!

Richard

Dillon does not make a bullet feeder. The one below is the best one made. It's a little pricey. You can add the hornady one to the Dillon with some adjustment to the mounting bracket/stand.

http://www.cedhk.com/shop/products/M...-machine!.html

+1 on the Dillon and Brian Enos.
I'd give him a call. He'll tell you exactly what you need, and won't try to talk you into anything extra.

I am thinking about adding this to my 650 it looks to be the only way to add a bullet feeder and retain the powder check as well as seat and crimp separately.

GSI has a not great reputation. I would pass.

I am a big fan of Dillon dies with seating and crimping on separate dies but I have lee dies and somehow managed to seat and crimp in one station for years before I found Dillon.

Also I would ask if the powder check die has flagged you while reloading on a 650?

No, and AFAIK, I have never messed up a powder charge on the 650. Then again, I'm not using stick powders.

The plunger on the check die sometimes hangs up (particularly on .223) and I get some false positive alarms.

If the question is: Could I do without the powder check die, sure. I would have to look in the cases, I suppose, but I could lose it.

The thing is, I like having it there because I find it difficult to look into .223 cases and I have little interest in looking into any of the others.

Richard

Unless you are using pistol powders for the 223 you can not double charge. The only thing it would check was a missed charge. Something that is very hard to do with a 650.

I personally think that most over under charges in fully progressive machines are caused by the operator pulling a case to check the powder and then putting the vase back.

To be clear I am assuming you are using powders that are known to work well in a progressive machine to start with.