Mounting TLR1 on AR
 

Just interested in your set ups. Pics? The best Idea I have is mounting with a bayonet rail.

The only setup I could call a success was with a FSB side mount a long time ago. It was a pretty decent placement to operate the rocker switch with the weak hand thumb. Now a days I prefer a Surefire flashlight on an offset mount.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...ps99467585.jpg

My son who just returned from Afganland has a TLR1 on his M4. That rifle had a Knights Armorment forearm, and he mounted his forwrd on the right side of the rifle so that his left index finger could activate the light (he didn't use a verticle fore grip). Worked fine for him, an he will now mount it on his personal M4'gery.

My rifle is a flat top with no iron sights, and I did not want to put an aftermarket forearm.

would something like this work?

oops double post.

Had my TLR1s mounted on front sight post

Went To TDI last summer for a class last day was heavy on ammo, gun got real hot outside temp was 95 deg 80-90% humidity.

light stopped working near as the low light stuff began.
switched to my surefire kept going...

Got back to camp it cooled off I put new battery in it and it came on however the strobe feature did not work anymore.

So If you do mount on FSP or near gas block might want to watch and make you do not over heat the light..

The short rail from the Magpul light kit on a Magpul handguard works very well (you can use a longer rail as well but the short one is covered entirely by the TLR). You can easily reach the TLR-1's rocker switch with your support hand.

I really don't like how the aftermarket handguards look, too busy or "tactical" for my taste.

I had a TLR-2 mounted on the bottom of my quad rail, worked okay. Happen to have a pic of the set up.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/IMG_0019.jpg

Those magpul stocks look great. Looking to put one on myself. Did you guys use the UTG buffer tubes? Don't know if I need them for my Sig Sauer

Not a TLR but the same idea.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...991A93CE5E.jpg

UTG= cheap Airsoft crap.



I've never liked running pistol lights on a rifle. They flood well but don't have enough throw, even the X300. If you're ONLY doing room interiors they'd do, but I've had to do far too much exterior work with a whitelight. A G3, Scout or now a Fury is a better option in an offset rail mount at 10 oclock.

Have any pictures of your setup? I really like the offset 10 o clock idea

Cole125 - Did your barrel cast a nasty shadow in the flashlight pattern with that setup? I know my longslide Glock does with the TLR1, and you have far more barrel ahead of the light than my Glock does.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...ne250mshot.jpg


7" LaRue rail. LT606-1 mount on the left rail, shot with a VFG and 'high thumb' this illuminates the target without getting much barrel shadow, and on a short rail also illuminates the front sight. Light is a G-3. Same mount and light I used on active duty on my issued M-4 in the same location. Having tried the bottom, right and top rails at various times, due to carrying an M203, quadrant and leaf sights, Aimpoint and PEQ2 the left rail was all that was left open, and ended up working well enough I stuck with it.

In the event you switch shoulders you can thumb-over-rail and still activate the light. Not perfect but it works.

How so? Are you saying UTG is "cheap airsoft crap" as a blanket statement for thier entire product line, or just their buffer tube? According to their material specs, they use the same 6160 aluminum with cut threads as many other companies use like DSA (which supply commercial and milspec diameter tubes to a lot of manufacturers). How many 6160T commercial tubes have you seen fail?

But anyway, you guys really need to get off the validation by brand mentality and misleading blanket statements.

Tapco gets crapped on all the time and is warned against to newcomers yet they were one of the FEW companies putting out an ACTUAL MILSPEC receiver extension (7075T, extruded, dry film etc.) Armalite uses 11595-E barrel steel, double lapped, chrome lined barrels but in 1/9. At one time Bushmaster and Olympic were actually praised for their barrels accuracy. Steve from ADCO did a torture test on a modified Rock River's lowly 416 SS barrel, and deemed it was suitable for a fighting carbine barrel, but still get cast aside by the gun forum elite because they are from RRA and aren't 410 LW barrels.



Sent from my ADR6350

how does one know wether they need a buffer tube or not?

Similar to what Mr. Murphy described. Same rifle as the other pic I posted, but with a quad rail, offset mount and surefire light.
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...1289658381.jpg

Sent from my ADR6350

I have yet to see any piece of UTG which I'd actually consider using. Didn't know they were making buffer tubes. With the abundance of quality products out there, not exactly running to get one.

The only two pieces of Tapco I generally recommend are their AK trigger and pistol grip. The rest, eh.

I've never said Olympics aren't accurate. Many are, however, across the board (speaking of dozens of examples) Olys tend to not be RELIABLE.

All ARs have a buffer tube. It's the tube the the stock is connected to.

Their armorer's wrench is pretty nice too.

I should have been more clear. I meant to ask if I need to buy a buffer tube, or if the magpul ctr will fit on the buffer tube that comes with the rifle.

Generally speaking, they're all the same as far as brands go, but there are two sizes. Mil-spec measures 1.148" in diameter and commercial spec measures 1.168" in diameter. There's no benefit of one over the other, so just make sure you buy the stock for which ever tube you have.

thanks, just what I needed to know. Would I need the stock wrench to change the buffer tube? and an extended castle nut?