The #17000 Hogue Handall IS TOO LARGE for a Glock’s compact frame. You need to cut it to fit. If your Handall, also, presses up against the bottom of the magazine release when you’re done fitting it, and makes it harder to operate - GOOD! This, alone, makes it worth the cost and effort to install a Hogue Handall. (I’m about to tell you, ‘Why’ too!)

Know what? It takes more time to explain, ‘How’ to do this than it does to actually get the job done! It’s not hard at all. Does...

Proper frame pin removal and insertion is, 'Basic Glocking 101'.

REMOVAL: Working from the LEFT SIDE of the frame, begin by using either an Armorer's Tool or a 3/32" Machinist's Drift Punch to push out the topmost, #1, 'lock block pin' first.

Next, while continuing to work from the left side of the frame remove the middle, #2, 'trigger pin'. (You might have to wiggle the slide stop around in order to loosen this pin.)

Finally, still working...

I just finished spending a good 2 hours thoroughly cleaning both of my daily carry pistols: Currently a Glock Model 19(RTF2), and a Beretta Model 3032, ‘Alley Cat’. (My slides are each locked open, right now, so that the Sentry Solutions, ‘Smooth-Kote’ bore treatment can spend the rest of the day drying into a nice hard coating.) I don’t use Hoppe’s #9 anymore. I, and especially my wife, hate that ammonia stench; and, worse, the ammonia Hoppe’s #9 contains is known to have an adverse effect...

(6) FAIR WARNING! Unless the gun is in frequent (daily) use, one cleaning is NEVER enough. Wait a day, or two, and go back and clean that bore again with something like: Break-Free, ‘CLP’, Weapon Shield, or even Ballistol. (This is necessary because barrel steel continues to leech combustion gas and powder residue for several days after a gun has been fired.)

The important thing to remember is that in order to get your bore really clean while using one of these non-ammonia...

NOTES AND ADDENDUM:

(N-1) I follow the practice of cleaning out a well used (and coated) barrel within a day or two after firing it. Then I reapply the Smooth-Kote. I do this just in case the heat of firing and friction might cause the molybdenum disulfide to become hygroscopic.

This is a precaution on my part. During the past five years absolutely nothing detrimental has ever happened; and only benefits have occurred from my use of, ‘Smooth-Kote’.
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