The glock mag loader is great for an inexpensive, single piece of plastic, way to load magazines.

BUT I purchased an uplula because I got a good deal on it (it was $15 still in the box at a gun show) and it is a lot easier and faster. If you ever reload while at the range and want to do it faster, I think they are worth the 20-25 bucks, they are that much better than the glock one.

You still can't fault glock's loader... its a great design and works very well with no moving parts.

I've got the ameriglo 113's and was told they were not adjustable. But I seem to shoot low and to the left predominately at 25 yds. I'm waiting on good weather to go out shooting again.

Thanks for the post. I recently read to pull the trigger as much as you think is possible *without* firing the gun. I do this and am surprised every time the gun fires (the trigger will eventually engage). After doing this with snap caps, I have seen an improvement. I'll try mixing the snap caps into a mag at the range. Thanks again.

If you want to figure out how far to move the rear sight, you do this:

Divide the distance in inches that the center of your group is off center by the distance in inches you are shooting at. Say you're off 3" at 25 yards. There are 900 inches in 25 yards. So, 3 / 900 = .00333. Now, multiply that by the sight radius of the firearm. On my Glock 19 that's 5.75", with aftermarket sights. So, .00333 x 5.75 = .01915". That's how far you need to move your sight.

Of course sight moving tools, or in my case mallets and job-made punches, don't have vernier scales on them. So this information can't normally be applied directly to the sight. What I do is set my caliper to the result I get and just eyeball the gap to get a good idea of how far to move the sight. I also mark the starting point on both sides with a very sharp pencil so I have some idea of how far I've moved the sight. By comparing the distance between the side of the sight and the pencil mark on the slide to the gap in my caliper, I can get pretty darn good results.

thanks

Butch I've been reading all your blogs today (post Lexington GSSF match). Wish I had seen all this info before. Thanks for all the info!!!!!!

Butch,

Many thanks, this will help my technique alot.

Chris

THANKS

thanks for the info , I'm a dummy .... in the learning process .

Great info in your blog Butch, thanks!

The Team Glock site has great illustrations on this.

http://us.glock.com/technology/safe-action

Uglier than home made sin!!!! Best looking revolver of all time - the Colt SAA Mod 1873P (4.75" barrel)

That is not ugly!!!!

Thanks for the work on this! I always find pictures helpful.

Dave

I never understood why anyone would want such a tool. We never needed anything like that when I was growing up.

But now that I'm all done growing, and getting old, my hands enjoy the extra assist.

And I even purchased an Upla for the wife.

.455 Webley? Even the brits who invented it didn't like that round and they were the ones who invented the ugly pistols to go with it

- low velocity of 650 ft/s (190 m/s).
- rated superior to the .45 Colt in stopping power in the disputed United States Thompson-LaGarde Tests of 1904 that resulted in the adoption by the U.S. of the .45 ACP cartridge
So it's got that going for it...
Yes I'm a little bored on the LDU

Butch, I talked to you on a thread, and you referred me to your blog. These have been alot of help, thank you. If I ask you stupid questions, I apologize ahead of time, lol. Feel free to tell me to shut up, I won't be offended at all, but I really want to become a better shooter and you're about the only person who's offered any advice.

A six o'clock hold means aim at the 6 o'clock position of the black section of the target right? What if I were to take round orange stickers and place them on the target and aim for those instead of aiming for 6 o'clock? Generally when I go to the range, I just take my own paper/targets and place bright orange stickers on them. It turns my 1 target paper into a 9 target paper, lol.

Last weekend at the range I was consistently a few inches low on my target.... no left or right, just low. Part of it was my trigger control, no doubt about it, but I wasn't noticeably flinching, (I dry fire every day for a few hours, and at the range I took a .38 revolver with me, had a buddy load 2 spent rounds and 3 live, and stayed steady the entire time, and practice it 5 times). Perhaps I was anticipating the recoil, so I pushed a bit? I think I may pick up some dummy rounds and work on it some more.

Thanks again for the help, and sorry in advance if my questions bother you.

Joe

THANKS, FOR THE VERY GOOD INFORMATION.

Here's my problem with "sighting-in" my G27 as you describe:

I did a rough measurement of the distance from the barrel axis to the top of the front sight, It is over a half inch - more like 9/16". This means that the bullet has to rise and cross the "line of sight" and then fall back to it somewhere along it's trajectory. Thus the gun has to be "sighted in" for a desired distance so that the bullet's path and the line of sight intersect, hopefully for the first time. What is that distance? (7 yd? 10 yd? 15 or 25 yd?) I guess it depends on the application, but for range practice for self defense, what's the optimal distance?

I found a trajectory table here http://www.chuckhawks.com/handgun_trajectory_table.htmthat show of a 9mm (with 115 grain bullet) is sighted in for "Maximum point blank range" the bullet will be about 3" high at 50 yards and about 4" LOW at 100 yards.

So I guess sighting-in for 25 yards wouild decrease those tolerances substantially?