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PART TWO: How To REALLY Clean A Glock Pistol

Posted 02-20-2013 at 07:03 by Arc Angel
Updated 05-11-2013 at 16:22 by Arc Angel

(6) FAIR WARNING! Unless the gun is in frequent (daily) use, one cleaning is NEVER enough. Wait a day, or two, and go back and clean that bore again with something like: Break-Free, ‘CLP’, Weapon Shield, or even Ballistol. (This is necessary because barrel steel continues to leech combustion gas and powder residue for several days after a gun has been fired.)

The important thing to remember is that in order to get your bore really clean while using one of these non-ammonia based liquid cleaning solutions, it is necessary to allow the bore to wet-soak in this type of solution for a good 6 - 8 hours BEFORE you start cleaning. However, with a paste bore cleaner like Flitz Metal Polish no waiting is necessary. (Just a lot of, ‘all the way through and all the way back’ scrubbing with the patches wrapped around your brush head.)

(7) [COLOR="Red"]THE CORRECT END OF THE BARREL FROM WHICH TO CLEAN ANY GUN BORE IS, ALWAYS, FROM THE CHAMBER END. THEN, PULL BACK AGAIN ON THE ROD AND PULL THE BRUSH HEAD THROUGH THE BARREL IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION. ONLY CLEAN FROM THE MUZZLE END OF THE BARREL IF THE DESIGN OF THE GUN DOESN'T GIVE YOU ANY OTHER CHOICE.[/COLOR]

(When I'm forced to clean a bore from the muzzle end, as I do on a Garand, I use the tips of my support-hand fingers as a rod guide until after the brush head has been inserted all the way into the barrel. Then proceed ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE BARREL, AND ALL THE WAY BACK. Never, ‘short stroke’ or change the direction of your brush stroke in mid-barrel; for whatever it’s worth: I consider cleaning cords to be no better than, ‘field expedients’. Neither do I believe that any of these recently arrived cleaning cords are ever going to replace the high functionality - and speed - of a good, stiff, metal, cleaning rod.)

(8) In order to, both, protect my regularly used bores AND to ease bore cleanup I, also, use Sentry Solutions, ‘Smooth-Kote’ bore treatment. (For long term storage I use Sentry’s, ‘Tuf-Glide’.) NOTHING ever sticks to a, ‘Smooth-Kote’ treated metal surface; bullet velocity seems to pickup; and, I swear, the bullets seem to hit a little bit harder, as well. An added bonus is that barrel cleanup is extra quick and easy.

If you treat your barrels with ANY molybdenum disulfide mixture, then make sure to clean them well within several days after using them; and, in the meantime, keep any treated and recently used barrel as dry as possible until you have a chance to clean it - OK.

I guess I should add the well-known Internet remark that molybdenum disulfide causes barrel rust isn’t (universally) true. Some MD solutions do; and others don’t. Sentry Solutions, ‘Smooth-Kote’ solution is, ‘passivated’. If you thoroughly clean out your barrel with something like isopropyl alcohol after using the gun and, then, reapply fresh, ‘Smooth-Kote’ I very much doubt that you’ll ever experience any sort of rust problem at all.

According to a material fact sheet provided by Sentry Solution's Mark Mrozek; 'Smooth-Kote' won’t become hygroscopic below 600 degrees Fahrenheit; so, for prolonged periods of time and until you actually fire the gun, you should be fine. I always have been! I’ve got gun barrels around here that have been coated and stored in, ‘Smooth-Kote’ for more than 5 or 6 years; and whenever I clean one out it looks brand new. (These guns are, also, stored inside a temperature and humidity controlled gun safe.)

(9) If you use Flitz Metal Polish it should not be necessary to use an ancillary product like, ‘J-B Bore Cleaning Compound’ inside your barrel. If, however, you clean your bores, most of the time, with liquid cleaners then a once or twice a year cleaning with, ‘J-B’ will remove the really hard metal deposits you might have been missing. (Experience and a trained eye will tell you!)

This is, ‘How’ I clean and preserve my Glock pistol bores. The system works; and has worked well for many years, now. :thumbsup:
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