PART THREE: How To REALLY Clean A Glock Pistol
(N-1) I follow the practice of cleaning out a well used (and coated) barrel within a day or two after firing it. Then I reapply the Smooth-Kote. I do this just in case the heat of firing and friction might cause the molybdenum disulfide to become hygroscopic.
This is a precaution on my part. During the past five years absolutely nothing detrimental has ever happened; and only benefits have occurred from my use of, ‘Smooth-Kote’.
(N-2) I clean out the slide internals at intervals between 1,200 and 1,500 fired rounds. Q-Tips work fine. If the cotton head is too large simply pull off some of the cotton.
(N-3) Contrary to what is always said on-line, and often repeated about Glock striker (FP) channels: The channel does NOT need to be, 'bone dry'. (I don't care what the Owner's Manual says; nor do I care what is presently being taught in the Armorer's Course. There's often goofy advice in both!)
THERE ARE ONLY TWO THINGS THAT A GLOCK'S STRIKER (FP) CHANNEL SHOULD NEVER BE. ONE IS DIRTY; AND THE OTHER IS WET - WET!
(N-4) Do you see that little hole in the bottom of the slide, on the right side and just behind the breech face? That's a, 'weep hole'; it's there for a reason, and is proof-positive that it's impossible to keep a Glock's striker channel, 'bone dry'. No matter what some of the Glock Talk, ‘experts’ say, excess: oil, liquefied bullet lube, and brass flakes are able to be sucked in through the breech face striker (FP) hole EVERY TIME your Glock is fired!
(N-5) Whenever possible ALWAYS scrub out a gun's bore by inserting the cleaning rod FROM THE CHAMBER END, RATHER THAN FROM THE MUZZLE END of the barrel. Remember not to, 'short stroke' or switch the rod's direction of travel in mid-stroke, too.
ADDENDUM: (Brake And Carburetor Cleaners)
ALL of the so-called, 'Powder Blast' products appear to be nothing more than one variation or another of non-chlorinated brake cleaner. (All brake and carburetor cleaners are commercially-used, cleaning solvents which can, and will, expose users and their families to potentially carcinogenic chemicals like: Acetone, Toluene, and Methanol, etc. My advice? Because nobody really needs to use any solvent like this in order to clean a firearm - DON’T!)
IT IS NEITHER HEALTHY FOR YOU, NOR GOOD FOR YOUR GLOCK’S POLYMER FRAME TO USE EITHER BRAKE OR CARBURETOR CLEANER WHILE CLEANING A GUN, AND ESPECIALLY NOT FOR CLEANING ANY FIREARM WITH ANY SORT OF PLASTIC IN EITHER ITS PHYSICAL COMPOSITION, OR EXTERIOR FINISH.
Even though Ballistol is NOT a good long term firearm preservative, I think it safe to assume that a large part of Ballistol’s sales success is due to the high degree of relative chemical safety regular use of this product entails for BOTH guns, and gun owners. Anytime I have a gun that I regularly use - or don’t intend to store for more than 4 months - I’ll do most of the cleaning and lubrication with either Ballistol, or a homemade mixture of pharmacy-grade mineral oil and 70% isopropyl alcohol (14 oz/2 oz.). ‘Why’? Because these mixtures are safe-to-use for BOTH me, and the gun!
If you soak the bore for a few hours, beforehand, and scrub with a bronze brush, mineral oil will clean, about, 60 or 70 percent of the crud out of a gun. This is, often, good enough for many heavily used firearms. Either Ballistol or mineral oil, also, does a fantastic job of cleaning and (apparently) rejuvenating polymer, too. The only real drawback I’ve discovered is that both of these solutions take time to work - Often as long as soaking overnight in order to get most of the real crud out!
(You, also, don’t want to over-lube with any mineral oil based, ‘CLP’ - OK. Glock, GmbH’s recommendation to use only 6 to 8 drops of oil is especially wise to follow in very cold weather; but, the rest of the time? Who cares! All of my Glock pistols are - by the usual internet lubrication standards - positively, ‘dripping’.)
Anytime I want to get a barrel spotlessly clean (If it’s really necessary to get a bore THIS clean every time you clean it?) I use either Flitz Metal Polish or Iosso Bore Cleaner paste. (They are chemically identical products!) In my experience NOTHING ever gets left behind inside the bore; AND there is no waiting for the chemicals to be absorbed. Both products begin working immediately.
For long term firearm storage I like the old, pre 2000 AD, Break-Free (That creamy, amber-colored liquid with the PTFE’s in the formula.) If I can’t still get that, (If you look hard enough, some of it IS still around.) then I’ll go with a, ‘CLP’ like Weapon Shield. For all the same reasons that I don’t use carburetor or brake cleaners, the other gun cleaning product I never use is Eezox. (Smells like a, ‘tart’s handkerchief’, anyway!)
It is, by the way, very difficult to find any LGS that sells all of the products I’ve just recommended. I think it’s going to be necessary to go on the Internet. Finally, I’m going to suggest that you get yourself a good, stiff, Dewey, cleaning rod; one that’s sized to exceed the length of your barrel by, at least, one or two inches. I own plastic-coated Dewey rods; but, Dewey’s plain steel rods have always worked well for me, too. Here’s some web links for you:
Sentry Solutions: http://www.sentrysolutions.com/mm5/m..._Code=FIREARMS
Dewey Rods: http://www.deweyrods.com/
Hoppe's Tynex Brushes: http://www.opticsplanet.com/tynex-brush.html
Iosso Bore Cleaner: http://www.iosso.com/MivaStore/merch...de=GunCleaning
Flitz, 'Bore Cleaner': http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleanin...prod55022.aspx
(Or, you can simply use Flitz, 'Metal Polish' because, chemically, it's the exact same thing in a different package!)
Weapon Shield: http://www.steelshieldtech.com/mainp...on-shield.html
Mineral Oil: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Aaron-Bran...fl-oz/10423864
ADVISORY: I am NOT a Certified Glock Armorer! (I'm only that armorer which Gaston Glock has forced me to become.)