Glock's, 'Gold-Colored Grease'
Ready? It's, most likely, Loctite, 'Fel-Pro' which is now known as, 'C5-A'. All of the copper-based anti-seize compounds are, pretty much the same; and, especially in a Glock, perform an identical function.
Top Glock used to sell, 'Fel-Pro' as the original, 'Glock Copper Grease'; but, depending upon what was available at the time of manufacture your, 'gold-colored grease' could be any one of several different copper, 'anti-seize' compounds.
Pro-Gold Grease, [url]http://bicyclewarehouse.com/product/progold-epx-grease-tube-with-applicator-2oz-sku-lu4007-qc30.htm[/url]
Permatex Grease, [url]http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PERMATEX-Anti-Seize-Compound-3CWP7?Pid=search[/url]
Loctite C5-A, [url]http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LOCTITE-Anti-Seize-Compound-5E203?Pid=search[/url]
From Glock World -
[quote]'HOW CRUCIAL IS IT TO LEAVE THE COPPER FACTORY LUBRICATION IN PLACE?'
'Glock applies the copper lubricant known as "Fel-Pro", which is an automotive anti-seize compound, to the rear underside area of the slide of all new Glocks. Word is that new Glocks should be "broken in" (200-500 rds) with this copper lubricant.'
'Certified Glock Armorers are told that it is permissible to remove the copper lubricant on new Glocks. However, if you do decide to remove the copper lubricant, it is advisable to clean your handgun thoroughly then lubricate it before shooting it (3 drops where indicated) with a quality product intended for firearms.'[/quote]
I've read that Glock, GmbH/Inc. uses this copper-based anti-seize compound as a deterrent to the slide's reset cam rusting against the tab on top of the connector, as well as to polish out any incipient roughness, or rust that might occur between the flange on the connector, and the, 'bird's head' on the end of the trigger bar. (This, 'gold grease' might, also, be something of an expedient, '25 cent trigger job' too.)
Not bad ideas when you stop to think that Glock pistols can sit in warehouses and on distributors' shelves for a year, or more, before being sold; AND, as everybody should be aware, ANY brand new polymer frame pistol can be, 'cranky', and needs to be broken in (or, 'verified').
Personally, I've never left the copper anti-seize compound on any new Glock I've purchased; but, then again, I'm a wizard with a Dremel Tool; and, the first thing I do to a new Glock is to rev up the old Dremel Tool, and go to work. (NOT an activity I would recommend to just anyone - OK!) After thoroughly polishing the action, I give the whole pistol a good cleaning, lubricate it well, and, then, begin to, 'shoot it in'.
Compared to using a Dremel Tool to do the famous, '25 Cent Polish Job', unless a Glock is going to be stored for an extended period-of-time and under uncertain conditions of temperature and humidity, anti-seize compound simply isn't needed. In my experience, 'ASC' does either very little, or absolutely nothing to improve the performance of the Glock.
[COLOR=RED]ADVISORY:[/COLOR] I am NOT a Certified Glock Armorer! (I'm only that armorer which Gaston Glock has forced me to become.) ;)